Dan I'm thinking around 6000rpm or 6500 at most. Then when you call the machine shops, ask them how much it would cost to rebuild a short block including the following but not limited to: clean and magnaflux for cracks align hone mains for. I know internals of an engine and functions but exactly what cam durations and lift numbers actually mean and how to match it all togather I don't know. Right now I have a 302 60 over with 10-1 comp. I agree and disagree with some of you guys, and I think some of this is just simple clarity of a couple important points, 1 are you going to run a stock, non rebuild bottom end, or rebuild it? We gave Troy four basic parameters to work with when we started to blueprint out our 351W. Then you can choose a cam and head combination that will provide the best power with the type of gas that you want to use.
Check out the results on the flow graph. Where are you aiming for that number to occur, at the crank or the wheels? The motor's still together and never had any problems with it. I was looking for a Hyd roller cam that will work as good or better than the none available Hyd flat tappet crate engine cam and with his 96 roller cam block. With a slightly milder cam and with a set of flat-tops, I would think this combo could tickle the hi 11's on 94 octane. The tall deck also positions the camshaft much higher in the block, virtually eliminating interference issues between the cam and the rods.
The Last post was in 2003 so I didnt bother replying there. The non-roller 351W blocks can be easlly converter to roller blocks and have proved to be crack free. So using what I already have a 1969 351w motor. Also keep in mind folks this is not a smog legal build Hope this helps, Robert i to plan to build a 306 on a tight budget. I might install that one 2 to 4 degree's retarded myself. While the power numbers speak for themselves, the real question is how long can a factory block take this kind of abuse before splitting in half? That way, a performance company has already matched individual components for maximum flow and performance. We got in touch with Rick Roberts, an Engineer from Edelbrock, to find out more about these heads.
I'll call some shops after I have the money ready. My Lunati degreed in at about 102. I also ground off all the extra casting flash and opened up the oil holes in the lifter valley to ensure the oil returns to the oil pan without restriction. Inside this piece, is a steel inertia ring that is encapsulated by high viscosity silicone gel. The main gridle needed to be clearanced to ensure a proper fit between it and the oil pump. Are there any good book that can help learn about this stuff too.
These rods are an H-Beam design that are forged 4340 steel. I'll have to grab Car Craft magazine. Because of its performance potential, it has been used in race cars, hot rods and muscle cars. Oh yeah, and the heads? We went with a flat top piston to work with our naturally aspirated set up. I also have to keep this motor low dollar.
That combination was good for 391 hp at 5,900 rpm and 405 lb-ft at 4,300 rpm. Maybe I should have gone a little closer. It's true that the stock shaft is larger diameter than a 302's, but it's also longer, so it has to be. What I am looking for is a budget way of overhauling a 351w block to make it street capable in the 5k rpm range. The pan has an extra deep sump that measures 9 inch deep by 7 inch long sump that gives this pan a total oil capacity of 7 quarts. The Ford 351W or 351 Windsor is classic American muscle.
I have seen guys run 600+ horse power all season long on a stock block and not have any issues. Yes, 351W block and rods, 302 pistons, and 3. I'll know if I have the money to spend on the motor,or not in the next two weeks or so. I know it isn't, but a few things I am looking at on this build. It'll take a big set of heads, high flowing intake, and a decent cam solid roller. We are really in love with the finish on both of these parts. It would be different if you were talking about a Victor intake or something aggressive like that.
I know if i start spending money on the specific parts I won't have enough to finish the thing. The chambers were big in 78. Help Building a budget 351w - Mustangsandmore Forum Archive Brought to you in part by:. It has been running perfect for about 12 years now. How hard are heads to rebuild with new valve seals and seats? I'm also doing it with old school ported Windsor heads. If you didn't stroke it though. So, if you come across vintage hot-rod heads at a swap meet or in classified ads, they needn't be limited to the 351 Windsor.
Chances are --- unless they've been modified --- a set of exotic racing heads from a Ford 289, HiPo, 302, Boss or Tunnel Port may give you high-performance without the cost of buying them new from an after-market performance company. Run good gas and make sure you get a good ignition box, and underdrive pulleys. If I'm having them do just the short will they still check for valve clearence for me? I've read countless posts about crappy quality cranks or how the cranks were machined poorly or out of balance etc etc. So when we told them about the rest of the components we were using, they fired over one of their Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts. This will be the happy recipiant of the new windsor. By the time the other guy hits 2nd gear I jump cars ahead because I havent shifted since we started. And I got over 220 miles to a tank with a vacuum secondary 750 taking it easy on break in.