Once the box is out, it's fairly simple to open it and replace the cheap plastic door, and then put the whole thing back together hoping you don't screw up something else. Mine is a 2000 F-150 I 'll say this. Its really not that hard, but time consuming. There is a power connector to the module, make sure you unplug it. You will need a special Ford tool for this. Once you have it poped loose;.
Determine which panel you need to remove and slide your fingers into the air vent located in that panel. Also, take pics so they can be added to this thread, or maybe you want to do your own writeup now. I had the hose assembly replaced, but the car started overheating when the engine speed was low, as in traffic. So now that your help has arrived, whoever will be on the drivers side, will need some pliers to squeeze the tabs on that second shifter cable clip. I would like to add though, that only one piece of the box was modified, and I feel that it will not do any harm even in the event of another bad heater core.
There is a vacuum connector and electrical plug to disconnect, and the antenna wire, pics coming. The trim will easily pop off. I had to remove the panels below the steering column and reach in and depress what was left of the locking tab mechanism from the left side with a shorty flat-head screwdriver. That defroster for the windshield is sometimes very essential to safe driving. The blend door actuator motor is on the front side of the box and can be seen by fulling opening the glove box and looking to the left over the transmission tunnel. A pizza delivery guy that stops the car for each delivery will fail much faster than someone commuting to work once a day. Now that wasn't too bad was it? Now on the floor vent housing, there are four more small screws memory that need to be removed, as well as two more on the front top that bolt to the bottom front of the dash.
Please see our customer testimonials below. Then slide in the new core at a horizontal angle back into the case. When you remove the front seats, make sure to check for any and all wiring plugs on both seats, regaurdless of options, my passenger seats were manual but still had plugs for air bag sensor, and seatbelt. Drivers side of hvac box, showing blend motor mounting point and shaft Passenger side, showing route of the heater core lines. Radio removal Ford Tried the coat hanger deal ended up damaging the clips.
Theres enough room to get in there with a small wrench or tiny crescent wrench. If anyone has anything to add, feel free. Loosen and remove two screws revealed just above radio when radio was removed. I guess I will peruse youtube for the instructions mentioned. Do this gently but you need to pull pretty hard.
Only advice I'd give, which you can still do, is separate each step with a bullet point. Well apparently the rear heater lines got busted as well under the step mounts. The bottom center vent elbow that goes the the floor vent under the console will probably be stuck to the floor, both of mine were. Remove the rod and re-drill the hole. Those should be easy enough to find in searches. Should slide off easily if there isn't pressure on the wheel, should have some resistance in down force though.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the radio from the mount you see, four screws in all. The 2002-2005 Explorer has a very well-established record of expensive transmission failure at under 100k miles. Slide your fingers under the loosened trim area and work towards the area where the trim is still flush with the dash, pulling it away in the same manner as you did in Step 2. You will need to unhook some more vacuum lines that come over to the right side of the box, they run underneath to the firewall, One goes to your heat control valve on the heater hoses, the other I don't remember off the top of my head. If your not comfortable with working with air bags, or pulling your entire dash out, or have a short attention span, this job may require a helper who has taken their meds. It seems harder then it is, and looks like it will be a more involved then it really is.
At least neither of mine did. Regardless, I think I can tackle this job after reading your post - so thanks, and I'll post updates on how it goes. See related links for more info. Almost done on this side, pop off the dash end cap to reveal the last two main dash bolts on this side. If it moves one way and doesn't stop it is broken.