First get the bolt lined up in the passenger side window, put the breaker bar on the pulley nut and have at it! You'll want to install them in the exact orientation they were originally installed. Then replace the pan and tighten the bolts back in place, torque specs bolt tightening may not apply in this case, due to difference in gaskets. The oil pressure problem is most common just a bad sender switch. It's a bit more complicated then that. Chock the wheels, emergency brake set, start and idle vehicle check for leaks.
Once you get the level correct. Very important not to trust that the amount replaced is correct, always double check. Remove the transmission neutral safety switch wiring, main electrical harness, transmission cooler lines, shift linkage, and disconnect any clips or brackets which may be mounted to the transmission. Also add a cleaning additive before the fluid flush. This is usually a very messy job, as the filter lives inside the transmission just inside the bottom pan. Remove the remaining top 1.
Remove the 8 bolts holding the front drive shaft to the transfer case and the front diff. It will probably take another 1. The converters are supposed to be neutral balanced independently of the flexplate, but it is always safest to assemble in the same orientation. Most two-wheel drive cars and trucks only have one connection. Once the threads would start on the studs in the next 2 holes up I tightened all four up little by little for about 3-4 turns. Don't neglect to change it also.
You will need a long thin spouted funnel to be able to get the fluid to the right location. You may still however get a little caught up on the hazard light button, you will just hav to wiggle it around there, as well as the rear of the vent on the driver's side. This is a step by step guide on how to remove and install a transmission in a 1998 Chevy truck Remove the starter from the engine and remove the bolts attaching the transmission bell housing to the engine block. Once down to the last few bolts loosen them, lift the pan back into place, and remove the remaining bolts. If not, dig it out and discard. Thanks for any help, Russ Finn Since it wont park it may be the motor assembly. If you planned ahead, you will have already soaked the exhaust fasteners with penetrating oil.
Unbolt, the pan, slowly, as gravity would rush all the fluid and you will be showered. But, it must be angled the same as the car is if the front of the car is raised for instance. Use the new one that comes with the new filter. Push the shaft forward to clear the yoke, tip it down, then pull it to the rear until the front yoke slips out of the transmission probably get some fluid out of the rear of the transmission and the front of the drive shaft. The fuel lines run up the back side of engine so removing the cross member will allow more room to gain access to the retaining hardware.
Do I need to do anything to the dipstick tube when inserting it into the trans? Tip the back of the transmission down to allow access to the top bellhousing bolts. On several vehicles the fuel and vapor lines and other electrical harnesses are attached to the transmission housing by clamps. Refer to Starter Replacement in Engine Electrical. Refer to Filler Tube Replacement. Yes a shop or a dealership would be your best bet for a repair of that nature. Tearing into the engine is never cheap.
At this point you should see where each thing should pretty much plug in. I wasted 4 hours trying to remove the dipstick tube at the point the service manual said by fiddling with the stud from the top. Most sources usually have you loosen all of the pan bolts in a way that the pan tilts to one end. Then replace the pan and tighten the bolts back in place, torque specs bolt tightening may not apply in this case, due to difference in gaskets. Blow air into the line that joins the top of the radiator so gravity can assist in removing any contaminants that might remain from the previous trans problems. Remove the muffler assembly from1997 z71 Transmission removal - 102208. Mine took longer 3 days as I didn't have these instructions to start, had to backtrack some steps, the service manual steps are vague.
It's down to the flywheel bolts and the 6 bolts on the bellhousing to get this sucker out. Disconnect the shift cable from the drivers side of the trans. Refer to Shift Cable Replacement. When I changed it there was alot more oil in it than should be. If the vehicle has a mechanical radiator fan, you may want to remove either the fan or fan shroud to allow the engine to tilt without interference. Try not to move the spindle itself so it will line up easier when you put it back in. A proper trans service does include changine the filter and the fluid, but it also includes flushing and conditioning.
Clean the end of the speedo cable and slip it in and hand screw it back in and be sure not to cross thread it. Dependent on which engine and transmission you have, the final fluid level check varies quite a bit. There should be at least 2 ½ feet clearance from the bottom of the transmission to the ground. Do not confuse with the … engine oil dipstick which has a yellow grab ring. Would you have any recommendations for either of the problems? Once you get all the bolts in, you can begin tightening them by moving around the pan, tightening each bolt a little until you reach the proper torque spec. Flip the transmission shifter into neutral - 2 clicks back from all the way forward which is park. I did open up the motor gear box to see if there are any other electrical components and there was one small circuit board where the wires attach to the motor but I could not get it out.